Marilyn Mason led a group of aficionados on the University of Michigan Historic Organ Tour XXXII of the Iberian Peninsula June 12-23. The tour gave everyone an opportunity to hear and play many unusual organs. We had been invited to present concerts in four of the cities; seven organists played: Rick Berg, Marilyn Mason, Karen Phipps, Michael Price, Dorothy Scott, Dale Shoemaker, and Hugh Young. One of the tour members, Rick Berg, a former student of Montserrat Torrent, graciously shared his knowledge of registration and ornamentation in early Spanish organ literature.
The first concert was presented on the two-manual organ of the Augustinian monastery of Sao Vicente de Fora in Lisbon. The instrument was built by Joao Fontanes de Maqueisa in 1765; its most recent restoration was in 1994.The tonal variety offered by the fifty-nine stops was amazing.
We continued to the village of Obidos to hear two organs. The organ in the Sancta Maria Church was in good condition. The other, in Sao Petrus, was hand pumped and in need of restoration. We found six organs in the Convent/Palace in Mafra. Although all were not playable, one could imagine how six organs would sound all at once. The six cases were similar as they had been built in 1807 by the same builder. Further treasures in Portugal were in Coimbra where we played the organ in the University Chapel. The chapel, richly decorated with azulejo tiles, was beautifully colorful. It was a perfect setting for the highly decorated organ.
At Braga, we found two beautifully restored and maintained organs in the Cathedral. They offered an opportunity for the organists to play two-organ works of Soler and Blanco. The horizontal trumpet ranks of these organs, located on opposite walls of the choir, came within several feet of touching each other.
Continuing into Spain, we visited Santiago de Compostela, the destination of millions of pilgrims through the centuries. Organists had the opportunity of playing the organ in the Cathedral: here, two organs are now combined into one console. On Sunday, the nuns at the nearby convent had invited tour members to play and listen to the organ in the choir, where clouds of incense from the morning service were still hanging in the air. Our two nights in the Parador Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos were enjoyed--the oldest hotel in the world, built by Ferdinand and Isabel for pilgrims to Santiago.
In Medina de Rioseco, at the church of Santa Maria, the organists presented a concert on the colorful 17th-century instrument which is decorated with gold leaf and red faux-maubre. In Valladolid the same program was heard again in concert at the Convent of Las Huelgas Real. Visually, the organ and its surroundings provide a sharp contrast from the other colorfully decorated churches, with an almost stark background of white plastered walls for the organ in its case of natural wood. The overall effect is striking, and the acoustics of the room were perfect for this vibrant instrument.
We arrived in Segovia, where we were impressed by its ancient aqueduct and imposing cathedral. The two organs in the Cathedral were available to us for the entire day so that we could prepare for the evening concert. The larger of the two instruments has horizontal trumpets, which open into the ambulatory of the Cathedral. The dialogue effects created by alternating the en Chamade reeds is dramatic.
In Madrid, the tour had a special opportunity: we had been invited to see and play the restored organ in the Chapel of the Royal Palace. To actually see the organ close up is a privilege, since it is not visible below. The balcony where the organ is housed gives, in turn, a choice spot from which to view the magnificent chapel.
The final organ of the tour was a modern, four-manual installation by Gerhard Grenzing in the Auditorio Nacional, Madrid. The instrument is designed to play music of all periods; there are also divided registers needed for the authentic performance of early Spanish music. We were allowed unlimited time at this impressive instrument.
During the 10-day tour we played 21 instruments, and enjoyed the opportunity to learn more about the organs and organ music of the Iberian Peninsula.
