For four days, the group would travel the length and breadth of this beautiful region rich in agriculture and vineyards, nestled in the Rhine valley between the French Vosges mountains and the Rhine river. Its villages and towns, between Mulhouse in the south, Strasbourg in the north, and Colmar at the center, boast over one thousand organs in its many lovely churches.
Predigerkirche, Basel
Upon arrival in Mulhouse, Marie Louise Langlais and Sylvie Mallet directed everyone across the border into Basel, Switzerland to visit two churches. We arrived at the Predigerkirche (Catholic) where Mme. Langlais introduced Emmanuel Le Divellec and Brigitte Salvisberg, young husband and wife who are both former students of Mme. Langlais. Divellec is organist of the French church in Bern and teaches at the Bern Conservatory. He told of the church, which originally housed a 13th-century Dominican monastery on the site. The organ was built by Johann Andreas Silbermann in 1766. It had one manual and 14 or 16 stops. Silbermann built a Rückpositiv in 1768, bringing the total to 28 stops.
In 1875 the instrument was enlarged, but it became difficult to play and was neglected until 1974. The firm of Metzler reconstructed the original organ in 1978, adding a flute 4' and larigot to the Positiv and prestant and fourniture to the Pedal. Tuning is Werckmeister, and the disposition is French "with a German accent." Divellec played several parts of the Guilain 2nd Suite: Plein jeu, Tierce en taille, Cromorne en taille, Basse de trompette, Cromorne and Flûtes; and Caprice sur les Grand Jeu from the Clérambault 2nd Suite. Participants were given playing time.
Then Brigitte Salvisberg discussed the choir organ which is mounted above the choir on the north side. At the time of the restoration of the church in 1975, an imprint of the original organ was found on the wall. The contract from a Johannes Tugy and a description of this organ from 1487-1493 were also found. In 1985, the Netherlands builder Bernhard Edskes reconstructed the instrument of two manuals with short compass. Manual I has principal, gedeckt, octave 4' and 2' and a hornle, which is a sesquialtera-type stop. The second manual contains a regal and a 4' and 2'. Salvisberg played O dulcis Maria by Hofhaimer, three Renaissance dances by Hans Neusiedler, and the "Fortuna" variations by Scheidt.
For participants, the change from the large cathedral churches of Paris, Caen, and Chartres during the previous week of the seminar was striking and refreshing. Most of the churches we visited here seat from 200 to 800 people.
St. Josephkirche
Next we were transported to St. Josephkirche to hear an exquisite 1904 instrument built by the firm of Kuhn. Organist Willy Kenz ushered us into the 1902 neo-Baroque church, where the membership has been multicultural. Near the end of the 19th century, Catholic immigrants from Germany and Italy moved to Basel to work, and this was their church. The organ is of 43 stops of three manuals and is a historic treasure. Manual I has a 16' bourdon, four 8' stops including gemshorn, a cornet, flûte harmonique 4', octav 4' and 2', quint, mixture, and trompete. Manual II has a 16' nachthorn, geigen, flute, viola, dolce, quintaton, gemshorn, transverse flute 4', waldflöte 2', sesquialtera, zimbel, and English horn. The Swell contains gedeckt 16' and 8', two strings and a voix celeste, flute and string 4', plein jeu, flute 2', oboe, and schalmei. The Pedal has four 16' stops, two 8', and posaune 16'. In 1934 four stops were added, and in 1992 the Kuhn firm rebuilt the instrument. The tuning is low: A=435.
In this resonant room, the music is stunning. The Swell box is very effective, and the organ is perfect for German Romantic music. Kenz played a Kodály Introit, "Andante" from Mendelssohn's 6th sonata, Karg-Elert's Nun danket alle Gott, and Brahms' Schmücke dich. Participants eagerly climbed to the rear gallery to play. Afterwards, the church staff prepared a fine meal for all.
Elisabethkirche
The evening brought a concert at the Elisabethkirche, a Protestant church. The organ is from 1861 by the Belgian firm of Merklin, which was a rival of Cavaillé-Coll. Originally of two manuals (with a third of only one stop) and 29 stops, the present case is the original one of 1864. The primary manual had 16' and 8' principals, salicional, octav and flöte 4', 22/3', and cornett 8'. The second manual had only an 8' gedeckt. Manual III featured flute 16' and two 8' flutes, flute 4', cymbel 1', and oboe. The Pedal had three 16' and two 8' stops. The firm of Zimmermann added four new stops in 1899 and rebuilt the organ in 1913. Theodor Kuhn replaced the Merklin reeds in 1937. It is definitely a French instrument.
Two of Mme. Langlais's former students, Emmanuel Le Divellec and Suzanne Kern, demonstrated the organ. Kern, who studied with Scheidegger, Bovet, and Marie-Louise and Jean Langlais, is the current organist of the church. She played the 4th Sonata of Mendelssohn, Chant de Fleur from Prière to the Virgin by Florentz, and Tournemire improvisation on "Victimae paschali laudes." Divellec played the Franck Cantabile, Alain Le jardin suspenu (with lovely strings and very effective pp-ppp dynamics), and Pièce solennelle by Jacques Ibert.
Saint-Jean, Mulhouse
The next day the group traveled to Mulhouse to the Protestant Saint-Jean Temple. This is a special place for Marie-Louise Langlais as it was her first professional appointment. The organ is an Alfred Kern (1972) reconstruction of a 1766 Johann-Andreas Silbermann organ of three manuals. The beautiful case is from the 18th-century instrument. The church is small, seating perhaps 150 people. The Rückpositiv is very close to the pew aisles which face the pulpit and are perpendicular to the organ. There are 26 stops, with mutations on each manual--Grand Orgue, Echo, and Positiv de dos.
Sylvie Mallet demonstrated the solo stops of the organ by playing a Tierce en taille, the beautiful positiv cromorne, an 8' and 22/3' (there is a nasard on each manual), the plein jeu, and the reeds and cornet, with an 8' and 1' echo. She demonstrated the tremolo by playing the Grand Orgue vox humana, montre 8', and Positiv 8' and 1'. When the organ was dedicated in 1972, Jean Langlais wrote and played his Suite Baroque for the occasion. The organ plays both French and German music well. Participants played Langlais, Bach, and Soler.
Saint-Étienne
The Gothic-style Catholic church of Saint-Étienne was a short walk away. The organ is a late-period Cavaillé-Coll with a neo-Baroque Positiv by Roeth-inger. The reeds of the Swell are as powerful as at Saint-Ouen and Saint-Étienne in Caen. Several participants played pieces which demonstrated the various colors of the organ.
Organ building in Alsace
Daniel Roth, a native of Mulhouse in Alsace, assumed leadership as our guide into the small towns and villages of Alsace. He was accompanied by Pierre Chevreau, organist at Saint-Martin in Masevaux. Within the 170 km of the wine route are nestled 100 towns. All of the instruments the group was privileged to hear and play represent the combination of German and French influence in organbuilding. Rheinberger, Buxtehude, and Bach sound well as does the music of the 18th-century French Classical composers.
The first stop was the little village of Oltingue and the Church of Saint Martin. M. Roth gave a historical background of the region and the import of its history upon the development of organ building in Alsace. Occupied by the Romans in 58 B.C., Alsace eventually came under the rule of the Allemandes (407 A.D.) and the Holy Roman Empire (870 A.D.). At that time the Vosges mountains formed the French border with Germany and Switzerland. The French desired to stretch the border to the Rhine, and finally took the land in 1648. In 1870 Alsace again came under German rule. After WWI, France again ruled. In 1939 the Nazis captured Alsace, and after WWII it again became part of France. In Strasbourg, the organ builder Edmund Roethinger (1866- 1953) saw Alsace change nationalities four times. Alsatian culture has taken the best from the culture of France and Germany. It is true also with organ building. Alsatians demonstrate a great love of music and of the organ.
In 1792 Alsace listed 300 organs. In 1844, the number had doubled to 600, and after 1980, 1004 instruments, many of them historically significant, were to be found in this small region. In the 1870s, when Alsace was under German rule, there were many active German organ builders, but Alsatians resisted the German tonal ideal--a hard sound, loud mixtures, and high wind pressures. At the end of the 19th and in the early 20th century, there was an Alsatian organ reform, with the desire being to rediscover the organs of Silbermann. The Alsatian Albert Schweitzer was important in this movement. Schweitzer loved French organs, and this was revealed especially in his trips to Paris to study the instruments of Cavaillé-Coll.
This movement was not the Orgelbewegung, which came later and was even more radical. Many Romantic organs were destroyed in the zeal to build organs with little fundamental tone, high-pitched mixtures, and absence of gambas. The French manifestation of this revolution occurred partially in the Neo-Classical movement of the 1930s.
In the 1950s, there was a Baroque-reform movement in Alsace, which reacted against the Neo-Classical movement in other parts of France. Alfred Kern's 1963 instrument at Saint-Séverin in Paris is an example of a tonal design from this reform movement. Kern's family were builders from Strasbourg in Alsace. The participants in this movement sought a better understanding of the old instruments and to make possible the playing of Bach and other German music as well as Classical French music. The 1970s then saw the revival of interest in the Romantic organs.
Saint-Martin, Oltingue
The Oltingue church of Saint Martin is of neo-Baroque style. The organ was built in 1843 by Joseph (1795-1857) and Claude (1803-1874) Callinet, sons of François Callinet (1754-1820) who began the family business. The organ was cleaned in 1941, and in 1978 Gaston Kern of Strasbourg rebuilt the façade pipes and restored the blending of the French and German influences of Callinet. It features a bourdon 16', montre 8', and sifflet 1', with fourniture, a beautiful cornet, and trompette 8' and clairon 4' in the Grand Orgue. The Positiv has bourdon 8', flûte 8', a flûte 4' which plays at 8' in the lower range, and a basson-hautbois which is a free reed. There is also a gamba (Roth noted that Silbermann did not build gambas). The ophicleide in the pedal is also a free reed, which Roth said makes "an odd noise." Roth improvised for us and then participants were able to play.
Église de Masevaux
We traveled east to Masevaux to visit the church of our co-host, Pierre Chevreau. Église de Masevaux (St. Martin) is a modern building, as the previous building with its Callinet organ burned in 1966. Alfred Kern built the gallery organ in 1975. It has 40 stops distributed over four manuals and a dramatic case which spreads completely across the wide gallery. The disposition is Grand Orgue with 16', 8' montre, flûte 4', prestant, gemshorn 2', cornet, fourniture, cymbale, trompette, and clarion. The Oberwerk has flûtes 8', 4', 2', larigot, cymbale and chalumeau. The Echo (42 notes) has flûtes 8' and 4', cornet and voix humaine (the only stop that is enclosed). The Positif de dos has viole and bourdon, flûte 4', prestant, 22/3', 13/5', 2', 1', fourniture, cromorne, and voix humaine. The Pedal includes flûtes 16', 8', prestant, cor de nuit 2', fourniture, posaune 16', trompette, and cornet 2'. There is also a two-manual choir organ by Curt Schwenkedel (1972) which of the German Baroque style. It features brilliant mixtures which are loud and harsh.
Pierre Chevreau is artistic director for an international organ festival here. 2001 was the 25th year for the event, with recitals during July, August, and September.
Ebersmünster
We traveled north to Ebersmünster, a town that is east of the north-south motorway and still in the valley. On the way we saw high in the hills to the West Koenigsburg Castle and Chateau de Kentsheim, two imposing structures that can be seen from great distances and which complement the picturesque scenery. Across from the church, we caught sight of one of the many man-made stork nests (occupied with parents and chicks) for which Alsace is famous. The towers of this Baroque church crown a beautifully-proportioned building. Once a Benedictine abbey, the choir was completed in the 17th century. In 1709 the towers were added. Nave and transepts were finished 1725-27, and in 1730-73, Andreas Silbermann placed the organ in the west gallery; the organ case is spectacularly beautiful. Silbermann (1678-1734) established the Strasbourg firm and after studying his craft with Thierry in Paris, settled in Alsace. His sons Gott-fried (1683-1753) and Johann Andreas (1717-1766) carried on, but Gottfried moved back to Saxony.
The specification is almost French Classical. Only the bombarde 16' in the Pedal is different. This was added to French instruments in the late 18th century and only to those which were the largest. The Pedal originally had flûtes 8' and 4' with trompette and clarion. The clarion was added in 1732, as was the Swell trompette. Today the organ is of 29 stops, three manuals with Echo (25 notes), Positif de dos, and Grand Orgue (each with 49 notes). In 1782, Johann Hosias Silbermann added a new pedalboard and bellows. In 1857, Martin Wetzel, a Strasbourg builder, added the bombarde. A cleaning was done in 1921, and in 1939 Roethinger added another new pedalboard, altered the voicing, and changed the bombarde and trompette. In 1998-2000, a complete restoration was undertaken in an attempt to restore the Silbermann voicing.
Protestant Temple, Barr
We journeyed next across the valley and into the foothills of the Vosges mountains to one of the wine villages, Barr, where we arrived at the Protestant Temple, which is Lutheran--unusual because most of the Protestant churches here are Calvinist. There is no nave and no transepts. The pulpit is the focal point of the church with pews arranged in front and on the sides. The church was built in 1852, but the tower is from the 12th century and was restored and made higher in the 15th century.
The first organ here was placed by the Silbermann family in 1739. The present organ, from 1852, is exceptionally large for the building. It was built by Stierh, a family of organists first headed by the father and then by his three sons: Joseph (1792-1867), Ferdinand (1803-1872), and Savier (1806- 1873). The firm added an associate--Mockers--and together they placed this instrument. There are four manuals: Positif de dos, Grand orgue, Echo expressif, and Grand Orgue (suite)--trompette and clairon only. There are three 16' stops and three 4' stops in the G.O. The fugara 4' is a German gamba. The Pedal features a wooden 16' basson and violincello 8'. The Positif has a cor des alpes 8' which is a conical reed. The voix celeste 4' is not a celeste but only a narrow-scaled string stop. The Echo, under expression, was very unusual for that time. It contains a basson-hautbois and voix humaine. There were restorations in 1895, 1924, and 1948. In 1977, Gaston Kern undertook the last restoration. M. Roth demonstrated the gambas 16', 8', and 4' of the G.O., the montre 8', and the plenum and reeds, and then played a passacaglia by Rheinberger (Sonata #8). Then participants were allowed to try the organ.
Saint Martin, Erstein
We traveled back into the valley, across the motorway, and arrived at Erstein and the Romanesque-style church of Saint Martin. Welcoming us was an official of the regional council as well as a representative of the mayor's office. The organ is a historic monument. In 1905, there was creation of a separation of church and state in France. All of the organs now belong to the towns. This one, recently restored, is under the auspices of a regional council.
The organ of 1914 was built by Edmond-Alexandre Roethinger of Strasbourg. As with other instruments, its specification represents a combination of French and German traditions. The flûte of the Grand Orgue, the geigen principal of the Positiv, the principal 8' of the Swell, and the posaune of the Pedal are all under high wind pressure, which was typical of German organ building at the end of the 19th century. The stops are designated by the word "Starkton-" indicating their higher wind pressure. The bombarde and trompette of the swell are of French voicing. The harmonia aetherea of the swell is a 3-rank mixture of string pipes, and there is an unda maris on the Positif. The Récit and Positif are both under expression. This organ's 64 stops make it the largest instrument heard thus far in Alsace. There are seven 8' stops on the Grand orgue and Positif and eight 8' stops on the Récit.
M. Roth improvised and then demonstrated individual stops. The clarinet on the Positif is especially beautiful. He conducted a masterclass with Barbara Reid, Jill Hunt, and Angela Kraft Cross performing Franck, Pièce Héroïque; Dupré, B-major Prelude; and Widor, Allegro from Symphonie VI.
Saint-Thomas, Strasbourg
We traveled to Strasbourg for the last day, arriving first at Saint-Thomas Protestant cathedral, dating from 1740-41. The organ, over the entrance door, is by Johann-Andreas Silbermann. Its beautiful oak case is of wonderful proportions. The rounded central tower of the Grand Orgue is of unusual design. There is a matching rounded tower in the Positif de dos. The organ comprises three manuals and 31 stops and is tuned at low pitch, but in equal temperament. In 1790 a trumpet was added to the Echo manual, and in the 19th century Wetzel added some Romantic stops, including a salicional. More changes occurred in 1860. In 1979, Alfred Kern, a specialist in the aesthetic of Silbermann, restored the original, but he left the romantic stops in the Echo division. Albert Schweitzer established a tradition of playing an all-Bach recital each July 28, the anniversary of Bach's death. The tradition carries on today.
The Positif plenum, jeu de tierce, and cromorne are original Silbermann pipes as are those of the entire Grand Orgue and Pedal. The Echo division recalls the Romantic period. The only 16' flue in the Pedal is a soubasse. The montre of the Grand Orgue is especially beautiful and singing. French Classical music sounds well here, but so does Bach, Buxtehude, and the other German Baroque composers. M. Roth first improvised. Participants played such works as Buxtehude, Prelude, Fugue and Chaconne; Bach, G-minor Fantasie, D-minor Toccata, and chorale preludes Nun komm der Heiden Heiland and O mensch bewein. The tremolo is especially beautiful.
Notre-Dame Cathedral, Strasbourg
We proceeded to the great Notre-Dame Cathedral of Strasbourg. The church, begun in 1015, has a Romanesque choir from the 11th and 12th centuries. The Gothic nave is from 1275. The spire of the west façade was finished in 1439. The organ hangs high on the triforium gallery near the west entrance, about two bays away. Christoph Mantoux, Professor of organ at the Strasbourg Conservatory, played a French Classical suite. The vox humana is especially beautiful.
The opportunities afforded by the biennial British and French Organ Music Seminars are evident in both the number of people who return to them and to the growing diversity of participants. Not only do these events attract professional organists who desire to play the great instruments of England and France, but there are those who are self-taught aficionados of the organ and those of other professions who love the organ and its music. Investment brokers, art historians, physicians, and computer programmers are part of these groups. Organ historians among the participants provide excellent outlines ahead of the seminars chronicling the timelines of British and French organists, composers, builders, and British influence on American organ building. Organists of all levels of experience--beginners to professionals--are allowed equal access to the instruments and to gifts of the faculty.
